Saturday, June 19, 2010

NYC - Manhattan

New York City - June 3-7, 2010.

Start Spreadin' the News...

Day 1 - June 3

A random draw contest and brilliant stroke of pure luck gifted me a choice of destinations from Toronto Island Billy Bishop Airport to anywhere Porter Airlines flys - gratis! ... and gracias to Porter for that.  This happened to coincide perfectly with a 10yr. wedding anniversary getaway promise and New York became the chosen spot for this kid-free adventure with the Mrs.
The outbound journey aboard a stylish Q400 aircraft  into Newark Liberty  Int'l Airport was fuelled by a box-lunch turkey sandwich, pasta salad and shortbread cookies completed
 by a tall cool can of Steamwhistle Pilsner / Missus had a glass of JackTrig white wine - no complaints. Refined flying indeed.

Price:  $0.00
Rating: Air Food: B +
              Experience: A

http://www.flyporter.com/


Shuttle ride from NJ to the famed Waldorf=Astoria hotel on Park Ave. lent opportunity to  catch our first live glimpses of locales that had previously only been vicariously experienced through our favourite video and print mediums - it was our first time to NYC.
Through the Holland Tunnel, Tribeca, pushing onward into Manhattan we captured mind shots of recognizable landmarks, like the UN compound. 

The classy gang at the W=A voluntarlily upgraded us to a suite and created a moment to enjoy by providing chilled 'Champaign on ice' with personalized welome note waiting for us in the suite - nice touch.

After the bubbles kicked into high gear, we extracted ourselves from the posh surroundings and ventured North on 5th Ave. toward Central Park
(Minor stop at Tffany's along the way to allow my Bride to identify anything her special heart desires - - and then take a photograph of it... Stunning choice Hun! Audrey Go lightly would be proud).















The park was an awesome site and definately worth all the hype.  Managed to avoid the omni-present street food temptations along the way and we made our hungry, hungry way into the heart of the cultivated wilderness to one of the only full service restaurants located within Central Park, perched on The Lake.


The Boat House...

We requested a table in the shade overlooking the water and all the lovebug rowing and gondola-ing going on there - I made a foolish promise to exert valuable energy into paddling my honey around after dinner like the poor saps currently adrift on the picturesque scape.
Our dining spot was was light and breezy with a compforting richness about it all. 




The menu was simple and the serving staff courteous and professional.  We selected tomato & feta salad, crabcakes and the special bone-in rib steak with sizzle butter; all to share - a plate of french fries was called in post initial order and the bakery tray made a few touch downs at our table.

 Just like the atmosphere, the  dinner was light, breezy and rich all at the same time, no need for dessert - It was fantastically satisfying.  The sun set over the  tips of  surrounding trees backdropped by  impressive skyscrapers and the water took on a sparkle quality that seemingly chased away the simple love boats heading ashore to the closing rental stand - ha ! dodged one there... I mean,  ahh too bad honey ;)







Price: Pricey, approx $120
Rating: A-

http://www.thecentralparkboathouse.com/

- - Similar uptown recomendations from Julie: Artisnal Bistro and  Esca
- - Also, Sara recommends Cafe' Luxembourg 



Exited the park at the SW corner and strolled at no particular pace down Broadway as dusk bolstered the building shadows toward looming darkness.  No matter, the manic lights of Times Square rendered said darkness benign.


 - - TIMES SQUARE - -
                                     

The flashing gamma ray boards and spinning / swirling luminesence became a necessary factor in navigating the mighty throngs of people that surely never leave these well trodden blocks.  Quick pop-in to Euro Cafe somewhere in the whole mess for a double espresso for 'he' and an ice coffee for 'she' and together we shot off in a yellow taxi bound for West Greenwich Village.


        - - eh' FrankieBLUEeyees. take it easy!




Arriba Muchacos!...

Around the intersection of Hudson St. & Charles St. we were aimlessly drawn into a simple little purple cantina called Mexcicana Mama and were rewarded with 2 frosty margritas on the rocks ($20 / B+) while we pondered our situation. We had no clue what all to do over the coming days, but we liked our intro hours thus far and we were loving our margaritas. After some dialogue with the personable waitress who, along with her serving duties, actually took on survey duties and checked in with other patrons at the tiny establishment to gain insight for us - helpful local input (..waitress actually lived in 'Jersey' herself).

It was pointlessly decided to build on the Margarita highpoints and retain an element of "tropical" themed urban vacation (which essentially means cool boozy cocktails are good...).  The proper night vibe overook the area and  after a quick jaunt through Soho to check out hotels and such, we took another yellow taxi back uptown, loaded up on juice and sundries at the 24 hr. buffet & mini-mart on the corner - and then crashed.


- - Other suggestions in the area offerred by Suzi F: Dos Caminos Soho

Day 2 - June 4

Morning light was allowed in later on (10AM), Starbucks off the W=A lobby on Lexington Ave. was all the breakfast required  to make tracks on the subway tracks toward Chelsea.  Purchased some Momo hats at a small shop in the neighbourhood and I became stalled when the Mrs. got hung up talking shoes with the shoe guy. 

My growling belly pulled me one shop over to a Latino-ish kind of place called "Big Booty" advertising freshly baked empanadas on a street board ~~ Tropic Thunder Hunger Growl ~~ enter - pass along a narrow entranceway off the street, shoulder bordered by a tall looming Bakers' counter holding back sharp peppery wafts woven with pastry bake and succulent meat scents chinooking over the peak of the countertop.  On recommendation from the apron cook / attendant guy, I grabbed a chicken empanada with 'homemade hotsauce' to go - found a box or something out on the street to lean into and just chomped down that empanada. Toasty, steaming pouch of chicken savour chili heat veggie eggy bits and herb-love.
O-SNAP! that was a freakin' delicious and mood altering food pill Man - love it! Love all empanada like things, from all nations / cultures, they can be magical -
- still talking shoes next door? - WTF?



Big Booty Bread Co.

Price: $3 per empanada
Rating: B++

261 West 23rd St.
http://www.bigbootybreadco.com/








Take a moment to peek around in Hotel Chelsea if you're ever in the area - different.


A couple blocks away is the start of "The Highline" -  a recent Project by Friends of the Highline to restore and re-create an old iron bridge network above industrious neighbourhoods comprising the Meat Packing District.  We walked the length and took in the clever spaces around  - no one was showing off in the hotel windows along the way.  What a cool thing to have in one's city - thumbs up.




http://www.thehighline.org/










Settin' the Standard...

At the end of the line, around the corner, tucked into the iron, I spied "The Standard Grill" and a recommendation from both Chris L and Steve twigged.  Wifey was overstarved and her feet were now rebelling against her new shoes - Me? I could've still eaten a big booty load of anything, Let's go there...


Once in, we were accomodated to a wall side table with window vistas and natural light - it was busy. A specialty Mojito for her, a Pimm's Lemonsquash for I and we studied the lunch menu over some dips and munchies.  The order was placed; 'the Standard Burger', Smoked Trout Sandwich with salads, also some Oysters (which were an unfortunate no show* but we were full enough to just let it go). All was good, it was one of the rare times when I preferred to taste the burger patty itself (as opposed to the sum of all bits post condiment application).  The staff were proficient enough and fun - our waitress, Erica, just came to NY from Arizona and will be a film and/or stage Actor someday - Bravo for that.

Price: Not bad - approx $40
Rating: B
 
848 Washington St.
http://www.thestandardgrill.com/


Strolled about until we ran into the entrance of Chelsea Market and entered for a pass through.  Actually picked up some new shirts, skirts & shirts - stopped to admire a continuous gallery theme throughout the market -


dedicated to hounouring facial hair - it caused me to introspect as to whether I could actually pull that look off...


                ...More street wandering,
                          attempted shopping
                          and photo ops


- Stopped for coffees and a break at a great place on the edge of the MP Dist. called "Pastis" (~$10 with tips / B+ / recommended by Tim and co. via Ryan).

http://www.pastisny.com/



We strolled  a very jolly path south along  the Hudson River.  Into Battery Park, around Ground Zero construction and through the Financial District to see the NYSE -





$$ Money $ money $ money $ mon_ey $,  Money! $$



      ## Feet Fading Fast ##


Meandered our way down toward the East River to fill the missus' heart song for the Brooklyn Bridge -











We then took the unintentional / unofficial  'Law & Order Tour' through One Police Plaza to Metro Correctional Center (MCC) , up the Emmy Award winning Courthouse steps and down into the subway to calm our 'barking dogs' with a train ride back up to the hotel.


Room Service...

Too exhausted to venture out as a supper team, we ordered room service to the suite - while waiting for the Waldorf=Astoria to prepare a SouthWestern Chicken Wrap and of course, signature Waldorf Salad, I was dispached outside again onto the unforgiving uptown sore feets,  uh... I mean, streets, for a bottle of wine. Found a store called "Ed's Liquor" on 7th Ave and 42nd St. The $15 bottle of Pinot Grigio was opened and recorked for me at the store when I confessed to Shopkeeper Ed that I wasn't sure if I was in possession of a corkscrew - that was alright of Ed.



Arrived back to the room just as the RS cart was gingerly parked into eating position in the suite's sweet spot. Although there was nothing more than a mound of shredded apples walnuts celery and creme' fresh dressing, the Waldorf salad was as authentic as it now comes - creamy, zingy, textured.  The SW chicken wrap was very average but required no more trapsing about town to obtain it - so we ate it down and rested - with T.V. - - oh yeah - - sweet, suite life.




Price: High $65
Rating: C+

Learn more about the Waldorf Salad

-- If there's enough energy to actually go out, Kate recommends: Ilbuco


The remainder of  the evening encompassed ; 1) revival from surface ailments and adventure fatigue of the day, 2) primp up and then out on the town for the night.
First stop, Grammercy Park ; a whiskey & water highball for Moi while the Mrs stayed true to our theme and had a frozen Margarita at Pete's Tavern - self billed as "the oldest continuous pub in NY - est 1665"

--Also close by, Laurence recommends Gramercy Tavern


- we took in most of Game 5 of the Stanley Cup Finals (Chicago won) and headed out afterwards to be fancy at a club called "280 5th" at 280 5th street to dance and lounge at the rooftop swank on the 20th floor.

 - - Fun night spot - healthy cheesey - mmm cheese -

 - Appetite Alert!!  My measly shared dinner had long ago burned off into the urban night sky - so, a 20 storey trip down the elevator  to the nearest 'Street Treat' wagon was in order. 






Random Street Wagon yahoo food...

One 'Chicken Gyros' - hot, tasty and messy was enjoyed on a stone bench while watching probably THE largest man in Manhattan  demand the truck staff to make him "... fish on rice, fish on rice , and make sure it's brown rice ma'Man!!" - odd indeed, but he did get that exact order packaged up to go - good for that guy at 2AM!

- the wagon was either yellow, or parked under a yellowish street lamp.
Price: for Gyros and water $5
Rating: A

Similar experiences all over town are recommended/ encouraged by Matt (Big Daddy Lew)

Day 3 - Sat June 5

Up at 10:30 ish  - Starbucks - Check out.

Mobilize baggage along route to next hotel, Four Points Midtown -  through  Lexington Ave. Saturday Open Air Market - I struggled with the load after a spectacular blow-out of a suitcase tire in the middle of the market - - nobody cared at all.



Past Radio City Music Hall, Rockefeller Ctr.

and Check in to temporary home number 2.




Back out to street market for $8 burritos and Sprite from one of the Mexican stands (back on theme) then shop and wander... Caffeinate at a puny but flash Espresso Bar up LexAv, load up on deli, cheese, breads and cold libations at a mini market next door and into the heart of Central Park for a lounge out and picnic type rest-up. 






Now, some may consider the practice of sipping a cold can of beer under paper bag veil as "ghetto" (and it is) - however, it is also a true delight at certain moments - like when sipped over a good hour or two on a shaded park bench just ajacent to Sheep's Meadow on a glorious Saturday afternoon.  The scene was coloured by random squirtgun battles between strangers, NYPD / EMS assistance to an over exerted park goer, ever running stream of excerciseness and best of all; a bewildered, lost hollering homey with a silent side-kick and a wheelie cooler receiving the worst directions to a nearby picnic over a cellphone -"... Yo man, its called The Great Lawn, there ai'nt no such thing as the GREEN Lawn,  they ALL green Man!!" - too much - nobody else seemed to care.
A quick scamper out of the west side of the park to 72nd St. and subway back to hotel to change up for the night.

Hecho en Dumbo - East Village

A small blurb in The Village Voice caught our eye earlier and led us on a $9 cab adventure to the corner of Bowery & 4th St. in East Greenwich Village.  As we entered Hecho en Dumbo, a modern Mexican eatery, there was a great energy and vibe cutting right through the air and into our muscular / skeletal systems.  The music and the space was definately alive, all made a uniquely positive impression - we hadn't even ordered yet - or sat down.  After some initial scoping out of the kitchen view seats, we backtracked to a table for 2  in the cozycramped dining area.  The chairs were all mismatched, yet the place still seemed hip - - that's how it goes in these parts.

Start with Margaritas!! - these were the best one's yet. Got the appetite revving with some tortilla chips and home made salsa dips.  Ordered up some Halibut Ceviche',  Chorizo Burros and Fish tacos (there was another no show* on a guacamole order that we didn't notice until our neighbour pointed out the same no show* on his guacamole order - Eh Oh? is this a NY thing??). 












Scrumptious rating across the board - the food was good, the surroundings lively'd up the rest.  We actually chatted an appropriate while with the patrons at adjacent tables (we were all sitting close enough to perform dentistry on each other) - all neighbourhood locals, friendly people.







H en D don't take reservations but process quickly and stay open late.


Price: Fair - approx $60
Rating: A-

354 Bowery St.
http://hechoendumbo.com/


Had to keep the good vibes going so we explored the lively streetscape around East Village,




through Little Italy (which becomes a street fair on Sat nights), slipped along the outskirts of Chinatown and back to East Village to wet whistles further. 

Popped into the Bowery Hotel for a look around and overpriced drinks - cool place.




Enough of that, more aimless rubberneck trekking and a few pop-ins to interesting looking places. 






                                          
Best one of note was Cafe Orlin...


O - CafeOrlin -O!

Tucked just off the crazy drag of St. Marks Street, we scrambled into Cafe' Orlin as a bit of refuge from the building party madness on the street and the heated humidity. Funky enough place with  a relaxing patio and steps leading down into the dining area(s).  We first sat inside to cool down. Mama was making merry and obliviously ordered "vodka, tonic, cranberry, sprite and a mango sherbert.."  after some consultation with the perplexed looking waitress she got it sorted - I chose right off the menu ..


Bruchetta with a bottle of beer, $9 - interesting line item, "...make it a Brooklyn Lager". - - We moved out to the patio to warm back up, enjoy our order and check out the action

Bruchetta was good, mango sorbet was good, mood was good, service was good (I think)




Cafe' Orlin = Good

Price: $25
Rating: B


http://www.cafeorlin.com/



Day 4 - Sun June 6

Up at 11ish , clear head of cobwebs - want to fill it with culture and such.  Unfortunately, the previous evenings festivities left us without the fortitude to take on The Metropolitan so we opted to take in The Frick Collection instead (we also learned that it is 'pay what you want' on Sundays between 11am-1pm).

Bagels and coffees at Dean & DeLuca, walk a couple blocks over to Grand Central Terminal and subway uptown to 72nd street E. The Frick  Collection was a really nice experience - beautiful works of art in a very elegant, refined setting. It was a decent injection of culture but we were still craving a little top-up of some kind of brainfood. 


Sache'd up 5th Ave, paused at 'The Met'  but decided to file it in the 'next trip' folder

We did however grab a hotdog from  cart right outside ($3 / C- / Toronto's got NYC beat on the hotdog front).

The Guggenheim was passed by and also put in the same folder (we want to give these legendary establishments a proper viewing). 





We did however give a thorough run-through of the Museum of the City of New York after enjoying iced coffees at the stand in front - it was OK - interesting enough and not overwhelming.
With full heads of culture, and ominous weather forming , we took our last jaunt through beloved Central Park entering at the North Eastern section by the


Conservatory and made our way along the path that goes around the man-made pond called The Harlem Mirror.  Exited at the top of the park, 110 St. and then cut back through to 5th Ave. Just then the skies let out all the moisture it had been holding back for days and we went hunting for any shelter from the elements. 

That shelter came in the form of a big blue southbound bus - we jumped on, unsure of our ultimate destination.





At least it wasn't  a boring ol' bus ride; we passed by some interesting spots like Union Square and Flatiron District which made for good fleeting viewage and window pane-photo ops. Onboard, a myriad of characters kept the interest level humming (like these 2 Artsy-Fartsies sitting next to a wanna-be Japan party girl with a blue wig, they drew random shapes on their art pads then swapped pads with each other to finish the sketch however their talent dictated - they were really good, it was a fascinating distraction)




- stopped raining-





Just before our bus reached Washington Square, an urgent 'body alarm' (that we are all familiar with) was activated in a most urgent fashion!!!  I had to get off that bus PRONTO! - out the doors and headed briskly to the first place that seemed to have plumbing...

 


Whoa!,
   Close call,
... relieved 







- wife is already seated, might as well stay for an early dinner.



Le Pain Quotidien - Organic

Given the fortuatous circumstances of our arrival, we wanted to give this location a fair shot.  We shared a large cold bowl of Guspacco soup to cool off.  I selected the sandwich special, Turkey Breast Chibatta with fixins and chorizo chips, Missus went for Egg Salad sandwich with anchovies (she passed the salty fish to me and ordered herself a mimosa).

 I was impressed with the food quality.  The place was earthy and open, splashes of art work were well placed - I also enjoyed the tableside grindable seasonings and the service.
WC Facilities are nothing special but have excellent timing...

Price: not bad - approx $40 with tip
Rating : B

10 Fifth Ave.
http://http/;//www.lepainquotidien.com




Washinton Square was a happening place to frolic on this day, paused for a moment then continued on into the charming streets of Greenwich Village and did some shoe shopping.  



Also made time to watch tidbits of some competetive street Basketball and hear some live neighbourly soul-train. .








While waiting for a light to change, I was 'called in' to settle an absolutely hillarious conversation between 2 hefty old time befuddled New Yorkers as to whether the 'beauty-ful big building' seen kissing the sky was the Emipre State Bldg.? or the Chrysler Bldg.? - it was like an episode of Archie Bunker (take a look at a map if you want the answer, it's obvious...) - I thought those 2 guys were awesome - nobody else cared

A little more wear n' tear on the soles a little bit of people watching and it was time for Happy Hour.
Down Bleecker St. to Thompson St. and we found one of the only Cuban joints in NYC, "Cubana" - stopped in for 2 delicious Mojitos each at the groovy basement bar ($12 per mojito / B- rating, only because these poor brave Americans can't legally get authentic Cuban rum, beer or cigars). There always comes a time in every tropical vacation when you witness the stark reality of local hardship - it really hits you in the heart when you think about how the 'have-nots' cope.

Cubana Cafe
110 Thompson St.



The earlier rainfall had severely cooled things off and as dusk settled over the city, across the way we spied a place that offerred 2 elements we had been seeking in NY from the outset; live Jazz & Pizza...

Arturo's Coal Oven Pizza...

Old school spot - perfect!  The place was busy, the atmosphere was throwback and solid.  There was no messing around at this stage of the journey...



1/2 litre of house red wine and a regular sized pizza pie with crispy bacon, mushrooms and olives - (my usual custom order).  We enjoyed the live soft 'skittadattle' jazz in the background and struck a conversation with an old dude and his companion about New York, Mississauga and movies - he opened by telling me that I look like a "low level mob hitman from Jersey" in my Momo hat which I took as a compliment because this guy looked like he knows more about films then he does about the actual mob, or New Jersey for that matter.

Pizza arrived - hot and delicious! The crust was unedible because of a black scorching on the outer rim from the coal oven (I scanned the dining room to discover all pies were indeed the same).  No need for outer crusts when the inner goodness is so satisfying.  We lingered over the last drops of vino and last  bars of jazz tune then prepared to head out into the cold for a ride on the Staten Island Ferry - a tip from our film buff dining neighbour (and Johnny F).


Price: good - approx $30
Rating: B+

106 West Houston St.



The ferry ride to Staten Island and back is an interesting use of time to catch nifty views of the Statue of Liberty, Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey from the water - it runs 24hrs and it's free!

That's pretty much it for our trip - we retired exhausted that evening and slept in to the max, forcing us to hastily check out and rush through Midtown to Penn Station for the train ride back to the airport - breakfast was Porter box lunchs and tall can of steamwhistle / JT Red - no complaints, none a'tall - that classic T-shirt with the heart, says it all.